Introduction

The Tibetans are very a religious community known for their devotion to life and God. It is believed that of the three most important mountain pilgrimages in Tibet , Mt Kailas represents the body of the Buddha, Tsari in southern Tibet , the speech and Mt Kawa Karpo in the east, the mind, emanation of the Buddha. Far to the east of Tibet on the border with Yunnan is the sacred mountain Kawa Karpo, at 22,113ft/6,740mThe mountain range, to which it gives its name, is an area that is part of the old Tibetan Province of Kham, described as the region of Four Rivers and Six Ranges . Kawa Karpo lies between the Mekong and the Salween , in an area of steep-sided valleys shrouded in old growth forest. The area is rich in flora and fauna. This is a stunningly beautiful where you can walk from parched semi-desert river valleys and into forests rich in vegetation. And all this in the backdrop of beautiful mountain views. The trek is most enjoyable in spring and Autumn.

Drive south and down into the Mekong Valley , with the river winding 1500m below. You will see incredible views of the Meili Xueshan range. The largest peak to the north is Kawa Karpo, which at 22,113ft/6,740m, is unclimbed. The peak to the south, famously described by Joseph Rock as "an ice palace of a fairy tale" is Miacimu, at 19,862ft/6,054m. Drive south down the valley of the Mekong . After a five hour drive you reach the small town of Yadza . The Mekong is huge, muddy brown and fast flowing and we cross a suspension bridge ornamented with prayer flags. A short walk along the bank of the river brings you to a small monastery. There are several murals of Kawa Karpo, including one of Milarepa ( the deity of work). Camp overnight.

Start a long climb towards the Doka La or White Stone Pass , heading due west. The path passes through the small village of Yonju , and winds its way slowly up through beautiful old-growth forest of Rhododendron and many other species. Camp overnight.

Leave Xusho and move high above to a valley. Follow a stream which at times overflows onto the path; there are many flowers all around you. The path climbs up again past a clearing at 10,827ft/3,300m, where there is usually a small temporary shelter serving the pilgrims, and up to Yongxitong, a flat pasture land filled with the sounds of horses and yaks grazing and surrounded on all sides by steep cliffs. This is a beautiful meadow with a pleasant stream flowing through it and cliffs and mountains around. Camp overnight here.

Cross the Doka La then trek up the valley and then leave the stream for a climb up to higher ground. Leaving the tree line we can see the path zigzagging, steeply for a section, up to the pass. It is a long climb to the top but the views are spectacular. On the pass there are many prayer flags. The country on the Salween side is thickly forested and looks wonderfully remote. The climb down is steep but after three hours, having dropped down to a stream you arrive at another beautiful meadow called Zisutong. Camp overnight here.

Follow the stream down through thick forest of oak, rhododendron and bamboo, with many species of flowers. After three hours the path contours away from the stream and eventually leads to a promontory on the ridge above where Tibetan pilgrims typically leave offerings of clothes, money and gifts both for their next life and to symbolise their rebirth on this kora. We will see two beautiful snow peaks of 20,275ft/6,180m and 18,947ft/5,775m. Descend to a river coming in from the North East and cross it. Camp overnight here.

Cross a second pass, the Nogtong La. Leave the river and ascend through a thick forest, of fir and hemlock. The path intertwines its way upwards to arrive at a spring at 11,466ft/3,495m marked by a small shrine. The pass is another hour away from here. From the pass you have to head steeply and rapidly down through pine forest into the much drier tributary valley of the Salween to the beautiful Tibetan village of Aben where you can camp overnight.

The lower parts of the Salween valley are much more arid. Tracking the tributary descend to a small monastery by the river at Chunanico 5,971ft/1,820m. The Salween is a fantastic sight, twice as wide here as the Mekong and without a bridge for many miles in either direction. Start walking due north between the towering cliffs which line the Salween . Leave the sandy river bank and follow the sharp bends of the Salween , along a road built to connect Yunnan with Tibet . Camp overnight here.

Heading North from here you reach the village of Yunmu where you can camp overnight.

From here climb further northwards to the Tondu La. Cross the and descend through the forest and enter an alpine meadow. Descend again towards the Wi Chu river which is a huge and very bendy Salween tributary. Follow the Wi Chu still walking north past two villages before arriving at the bridge which leads up to the village of Gebu above. Camp overnight at the village.

The Gebu La isn't really a pass and it isn't a big deal to cross it. Climb through a forest and after about 5 hrs or so we cross the pass festooned again with prayer flags and offerings. The path then meanders steeply down through lush fir forest and after 3 hours you have to cross a stream and enter the woods where its quite safe to comp overnight.

Move down through the forest to arrive again at the Wi Chu river which makes a lot of bends on its way to the Salween . Cross the river by a little monastery of Junekha and then climb 500m/1,500ft up to the small village of Lada . There are great views of mountains from this village. Camp overnight here.

Leave Lada and head upwards through a forest. After a thousand meters with glimpses of the peak of Kawakarpo itself to the south the path emerges from the forest to high alpine meadow leading to wild mountain country. The path leads up slowly through this open country before reaching the foot of the Shu La. There is a short steep climb to the top. There are stunning sights in all directions and the pass is again a mass of prayer flags. Drop through a hanging valley surrounded by striking red cliffs to follow another stream. There are more idyllic, flower covered meadows as we lose height and camp at Donthon.

It is a long descent through a stunningly beautiful valley following the stream past waterfalls and through thick forest. Watch out for the various pilgrimage sites on the way, especially a small cave where typically, pilgrims crawl through to symbolise their rebirth on kora. Go down a long way leaving alpine meadow, through thick lush forest and finally entering again the dry sub tropics by the Mekong river. You reach the small town of Melexu on the Mekong . Drive back to Deqen and from there to Zhongdian.