The
Marshyangdi Valley is situated in the watershed dividing
the Annapurna from the Manaslu Himal. Walking up this
valley provides travelers with excellent and ever-changing
views of Machhapuchhare (22,942ft/6,993m) , Lamjung Himal
(22,904ft/6,981m) , Annapurna II (26,033ft/7,935m) , Annapurna
IV (24,682ft/7,523m) , Annapurna III (24,780ft/7,553m)
and Gangapurna (24,452ft/7,453m) on the north and west.
Manaslu (26,752ft/8,154m), Peak 29 (25,699ft/7,833m) and
Baudha Himal (21,884ft/6,670m) dominate the eastern skyline.
This river bed of the Marshyangdi valley is fertile and
is heavily cultivated with rice, with millet, corn and
buckwheat terraces scale the hillsides. In this part of
Nepal huge, shady banyan trees shelter scattered villages
and varieties of mango and banana flourish. Two storied
houses are brightly painted with red ochre or whitewash
and are usually surrounded by the scarlet and orange blossoms
of poinsettias and marigolds. At the bazaar town of Bagarchhap
, the Marshyangdi Khola (river) swerves almost due west
to enter the long Manangbhot Valley .
The canyon becomes much narrower at this point and the
trail frequently descends 500ft to suspension bridges
across the river before regaining elevation on the opposite
bank. The region becomes increasingly forested with pines
and firs. Between Chame and Pisang the effect of the Himalayan
rain shadow can be observed. Although the forests do not
disappear entirely as they do in the upper Kali Gandaki,
they become generally more sparse with a greater percentage
of juniper. The fields are sown with barley, buckwheat
and potatoes - hardy crops that can thrive in cold, semi-dry
regions. The Manangbhot Valley is surrounded on all sides
by major Himalayan peaks. The southern end is guarded
by Annapurna II, IV, and III, while Gangapurna, Glacier
Dome (23,593ft/7,191m) and Tilicho Peak (23,400ft/7,132m)
loom to the west. Lesser-known mountains stand to the
north and east, including Chulu Himal (21,746ft/6,628m)
and Pisang Peak (19,978ft/6,089m), both of which have
recently been opened for climbs as 'trekking peaks'.
Crossing the Thorong La Pass (17,764ft/5,415m) from Manang
is a long but gradual climb through grassy meadows and
high yak pastures. From the top there are unmatched views
of the northern faces of Annapurna and her satellite peaks.
As the trail descends into Muktinath at 12,500ft/3,810m,
a holy pilgrimage site for Hindus and Buddhists alike,
the statuesque summit of Dhaulagiri appears on the southern
horizon. Entering the Kali Gandaki from Muktinath begins
with a descent into the vast alluvial fan of Thak Khola
(river), home of the Thakali people. Marpha is perhaps
the most picturesque village in this region, irrigated
fields border its whitewashed houses and the community
stands out brilliantly against eroding sandstone cliffs.
DAY
02: DRIVE TO BESI SAHAR THEN TREK TO KHUDI (2,591 ft/790m).
5-6 hrs drive. 1½-2 hrs walk
From Kathmandu drive to Besi Sahar. Your
journey takes you through deep gorges as you trace the
Trisuli river westwards. You will pass through the small
town of Mugling where the Trisuli and Marshyangdi rivers
meet. The town also serves as the crossroads between
Kathmandu , Pokhara and Chitwan in the south. You pass
over an impressive suspension bridge and begin to follow
the Marshyangdi river, which will become a familiar
sight, as it will be your companion all the way to Thorong
Phedi. On this section of the road you will gain your
first sight of the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges. After
Mugling you turn north and the Annapurna Massif looms
as you approach Besi Sahar. After taking lunch here
you will begin your trek! This afternoon's walk will
only be a short one (1½-2 hours). After crossing
the Pam Khola ( Khola Means River ) you follow a gently
ascending path through the fertile Marshyangdi valley.
After just over an hour's walk you cross a bamboo bridge
which signifies the approach to Khudi, a small settlement
made up of local lodges, shops and teahouses. You will
cross another bamboo bridge to reach the Riverside Guest
House, a lodge on the banks of the Nagdi Khola, where
you can relax to the sound of the river and look forward
to tomorrow's walk.
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
03: TREK TO BAHUNDANDA (4,330ft/1,320m). 5-6 hrs
Leaving
Khunde you regain the main trail and pass a local school
on your right-hand side. You pass through the small village
of Bhulbhule , which sits on both sides of the Marshyangdi
River . cross a wide suspension bridge over the mighty
Marshyangdi, which at this point flows milky white. The
bridge serves as a vital connection between both sides
of the village. You continue past terraced rice fields
and here the path is mostly level. About 30 minutes after
Bhulbhule you begin a gentle ascent to the village of
Nagdi . You will have to cross a small wooden bridge after
which you will come across the first few houses, which
signify the outer reaches of Nagdi. Continuing up the
path you will see the main village, which rests on a small
outcrop onthe banks of the Marshyangdi. There is the opportunity
to stop here for a cup of tea in one of several friendly
lodges. From here you will cross another large suspension
bridge over the Ngadi Khola, where the trail starts to
gain height and strays away from the Marshyangdi and through
a wooded area. For the last hour there is a steep climb
through cultivated fields into Bahundanda. Bahundanda
means "hill of the Brahmins" and the settlement of mainly
Hindu population sits on the crest of a ridge. There is
a small temple in the village and in the centre of the
village square is a large pipal tree, which has religious
significance. If you still have some energy after your
days' walk there are some hot springs 30 minutes away.
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
04: TREK TO CHAMJE (4,691ft/1,430m) 6-7 hrs
FromBahundanda
you will descend a series of stone steps. Around these
low-lands you may see local villagers harvesting their
rice crops. In this area they are able to grow 2-3 crops
a year depending on rainfall. The path then levels off
and from here you will see the small settlements of Sildhunga
and Tadhring clinging to the hillside on the opposite
side of the valley. You cross a small log bridge and climb
up passing a disused water-powered grinding mill. After
passing through the village of Lili Bhir you continue
contouring around the valley side. You come to a small
chorten which marks the boundary of Khani Gaon and there
is another chorten at the end of the village. You will
soon pass through another village called Ghermuphant.
This means "flat place" due to the wide flat expanse on
which the village sits. On the opposite side of the valley
there is a magnificent waterfall which extends the whole
height of the valley side. You now descend to the valley
floor to cross a steel suspension bridge across the Marshyangdi
at Syange. As you trek up the valley you will notice the
sides narrowing and increasing in height. You will pass
many donkey trains along the way. From here it is a steep
climb up to the village of Jagat which means "toll-station",
as this was once a tax collecting point for the Tibetan
salt trade. When Bill Tilman visited the area in 1950
this route did not exist. Instead he had to walk along
a series of wooded galleries tied to the rock face! The
valley has now become a steep canyon and there is a steep
climb up to the village of Chamje.
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DAY
05: TREK TO BAGARCHHAP (7,086ft/2,160m). 6-7 hrs
Leaving
Chamje you soon come to a suspension bridge to cross to
the Marshyangdi's east side. You continue through a series
of overhanging rock formations. After a short climb the
path begins to traverse the rock face on a broad ledge.
You then come to a series of stone steps and pass a couple
of "Bhattis" on your way. "Bhattis" originally offered
just alcoholic drinks and some lodgings but since the
advent of tourism they now stock all sorts of soft drinks
and snacks. After a while the trail evens out and you
will cross through an archway- this is the gateway to
Tal and the Manang district. "Tal" is the Nepali word
for "lake" and you will see the broad expanse where a
lake used to be. The trail leads to the right of this
expanse beneath a mighty rock wall on your right. The
people of the Manang region are Tibetan in origin and
you will see increasing evidence of this Tibetan influence
as you continue your trek up to Thorong Phedi. The architecture
changes and you will see more Buddhist chortens and gompas.
The trail from Tal is level for a while, giving a welcome
relief for you legs! The Marshyangdi is wide and calm
at this point. After an hour you cross a bridge back to
the western side of the gorge. Back on the eastern bank
you will see the old trail which was used until recently.
However due to landslides it is no longer safe. You continue
to climb to reach the village of Dharapani , which has
numerous hotels and a police check post. While you pass
through the village you will see a valley coming in from
the east along which the Dudh Khola flows. This is where
the Manaslu circuit trek route joins the Marsyangdi river,
coming down from the Larkya La. From here there is a "low
path" or a "high path" leading to Bagarchhap. The high
path involves climbing a series of stone steps for at
least 45 minutes, however it is worth it for the view
and the two small villages you pass through. The first
is called Odar and the second Ghalan Chok. As this trail
is little used by tourists, the villages have retained
their character and there is not a guesthouse in sight.
The villages are surrounded by high terraces of maze and
soya beans. From here you make the short descent to Bagarchhap
for the night. If you have time you may want to visit
the splendid Gompa in Bagarchhap.
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
06: TREK TO CHAME (8,628ft/2,630m) 5 hrs
Leaving
Bagarchhap you proceed up the valley gaining great views
of Annapurna II (7,937m/26,040ft) and Lamjung Himal (6,932m/22,743ft)
directly in front of you. After half an hour you will
pass through the village of Danakyu . You pass a mani
wall and a huge prayer wheel on your left hand side. If
you look back you should be able to see the lofty peaks
of Manaslu (8,154m/26,752ft) and Peak 29 (7,833m/25,699ft).
After Danakyu there is the possibility of taking a "low
route". However we recommend you take the "high route"
which offers spectacular scenery. You will have a steep
climb of just under an hour through a forest populated
by pines and firs. The trail then flattens out and you
cross a log bridge. You might catch sight of the Langur
monkeys, which are resident here. The trail ascends again
and looking back, Manaslu now appears closer than ever.
The trail takes you through a natural amphitheatre, with
high wooded hillsides all around. A short while after
you will reach Timang Meadows - a small village. Continuing
on, the path is level and after a river you will come
to another village called Thanchok. Further up the trail
you may get a sight of Annapurna II towering into the
sky. The path then rejoins the main trail and in this
area the trail is scattered with huge boulders. Descending
through woodland you pass through the village of Koto
which sits in the shadow of Annapurna II and on your right
you will see the Naw Khola joining the Marshyangdi from
a northern valley. In Koto there is a small Gompa adorned
with brightly coloured paints. The valley then opens out
and it is a short level walk to Chame where you will spend
the night. Chame is the headquarters of the Manang district
and you will see district officials riding up and down
the trail on horseback, which is still the fastest means
of transportation in this area. You enter Chame through
an archway and there is a large mani wall soon after.
Chame is a good place to do last minute shopping - you
can buy woolly hats and gloves, chocolate and batteries,
the bank may be open to change money and it may even be
possible to make a telephone call..
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
07: TREK TO PISANG (10,465ft/3,190m). 5 hrs
Today
will be a shorter walk but the scenery is so wonderful
that you will want to take your time. Leaving Chame you
pass a few mani walls, one overshadowed by a huge wall
of rock to your right. You pass though a small hamlet
marked by chortens at each end. The trail here is even
and for a while is bordered by an attractive dry stone
wall. Soon after you arrive at a water-turned prayer wheel.
You pass through the village of Bhratang and continue
up until you begin a 45-minute climb though forest, levelling
off and then reaching a suspension bridge. Crossing the
bridge there is a moderate climb in forest and you begin
to move away from the Marshyangdi. The valley begins to
broaden out and Pisang Peak (6091m/19,983ft) will be directly
in front of you. The woodland here is made up of juniper,
pine and fir. You pass a couple of small lakes where wading
birds can sometimes be seen. Pisang is divided into upper
and lower villages. You cross a small wooden bridge to
arrive in Lower Pisang where you can stay in a lodge;
It is well worth while crossing the Marshyangdi River
and climbing up to the upper village, which is more traditional
and has an ornately decorated gompa overlooking both villages.
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
08: TREK TO MANANG (11,482ft/3,500m)
There
are two options a Low route of 5 hrs or a High route of
6/7 hrs depending on how energetic you are. If you take
the lower, less strenuous route, the path out of the valley
is pretty level and then once out of the valley you begin
to contour round to your left and climb up onto a ridge.
The view from this ridge is breathtaking looking down
into the Manang valley and you will want to stay here
all day to enjoy it! Dropping to the valley floor the
path is wide and dusty. You will have noticed that the
scenery here is becoming more arid, the air drier and
the wind colder. Annapurna III (7,555m/24,786ft) rises
to the left and passing through the village of Hongde
you will see the deserted remains of the old village on
its outskirts. The path then rises gradually and takes
you into the next valley. After a couple of hours walk
you will pass through the village of Braga , just 30 minutes
walk from Manang.
If you are feeling
fit and energetic then the high route on the east bank
of the Marshyangdi which is strenuous but well worth the
effort. You cross the river out of Pisang village and
then take a reasonably level path through scrub land,
passing a small picturesque lake on your right. You then
pass a long mani wall and descend to cross a
stream and begin a strenuous climb on zig zags up to the
village of Ghyaru (12,050ft/3,673m). A welcome tea shop
is the first house you reach in the village. It is well
worth climbing up to visit the gompa at the top of the
village. The views from here of Annapurna II and Annapurna
IV are totally stunning. From Ghyaru you continue up the
valley on a wonderful high level trail, passing the ruins
of a castle set on a promontory, with views both ways
up and down the valley. You then arrive at the village
of Ngawal (11,975ft/3,650m) where there is a large newly
built gompa up to the right. You leave the village from
near a long mani wall. Finally you descend back to the
valley floor and rejoin the main trail to continue to
Braga and Manang. Before continuing it is well worth visiting
Braga Gompa, which is the oldest in the area and is a
wonderfully atmospheric building.
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
09: TREK TO YAK KHARKA (13,418ft/4,090m). 3-4 hrs
Leave
Manang and take about 30 minutes to reach the upper village.
After this you contour round the hillside and gain great
views of the "grand barrier", the high ridge between Roc
Noir and Nilgiri named by French climber Maurice Herzog.
Below the grand barrier you will see down the Khangsar
valley which leads up to Tilicho lake. Passing the hamlet
of Gunsang you continue through the barren upper reaches
of the Manang valley. The path ascends gradually but is
still hard work due to the increased altitude. You will
arrive at Yak Kharka and have lunch there. In the afternoon
you could take a walk further up the valley or climb the
ridge behind the village - if you make it to the top of
the ridge there are great views of the north of the Annapurna
range. Either of these walks would help with acclimatization.
Even if you only venture a short way above the camp there
is the chance of seeing the large flocks of blue sheep
which inhabit this area. Either of these walks would help
with acclimatization..
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
10: TREK TO THORONG PHEDI (14,730ft/4,490m). 3-4 hrs
Again
today is another short day, yet essential for proper acclimatisation.
Leaving Yak Kharka you will pass through the small collection
of lodges known as Letdar. You will take a high route,
which winds its way around the eastern side of the Thorong
valley, before dropping down to the valley floor. Crossing
the river there is a short but sharp climb to Thorong
Phedi. Phedi means "foot of the hill" and while it is
the jumping off point for crossing the Thorong La it is
not the prettiest place in the world! In the afternoon
it is worth walking up beyond the first notch to the collection
of huts known as upper base camp, as an acclimatisation
walk, and then continuing up to the right to a small peak
for superb all round views. Watch out here for blue sheep
and snow leopard!
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
11: CROSS THORONG LA (17,764ft/5,414m). TREK TO MUKTINATH
(12,500ft/3,810m)
Today
you will need to have plenty of water with you and you
may also want to have your down jacket with you. Starting
at dawn or thereabouts you first ascend steeply for 1½
hours to a rock ledge and notch at 15,350ft/4,679m, then
continue up along an ascending and undulating trail. This
ascent will seem endless and be warned - there are several
false summits, but there are great views back down the
valley as you go. Finally, after anything from 3 to 5
hours, you arrive at the top of the Thorong La (17,764ft/5,414m)
with its large cairn and many prayer flags. You will have
spectacular views of the Annapurna Range to the south
and the Mukat Himal bordering Dolpo to the west. The peak
immediately south of the pass is Thorong Peak - this is
a 'trekkers peak' and you may see people climbing here.
You will probably not want to linger too long at the pass
as it can be very cold and you will probably be feeling
the effects of altitude. The descent to Muktinath is very
steep and takes some 3 to 4 hours. This is where you might
appreciate having walking poles to take the strain off
the knees! During the descent there are splendid views
of Dhaulagiri (8,175m/26,821ft) and Tukuche Peak (6,920m/22,703ft)
and all the way down into the valley of the Kali Gandaki
below. Finally you see the buildings of Muktinath coming
in to view. You bypass the enclosure round the famous
temples and descend to the main village, which is actually
called Ranipawa and not Muktinath, a name which technically
refers just to the temple.
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
12: TREK TO KAGBENI (9,200ft/2804m)
Continue
walking down from Muktinath. You pass by the village of
Jharkot with its crumbling but still impressive fortress
and continue down past the village of Khingar . You will
then come to a trail junction - the left fork leads to
Jomsom but you take the right one and descend steeply
to the village of Kagbeni , which is a fascinating oasis
in this arid landscape. It is the most northerly village
of Mustang that you can visit without a permit and it
is worth walking through its narrow streets of ancient
houses, through to the end of town, to see the Thak Khola
valley stretching away to the north. The ancient gompa
is also worth visiting. In the autumn watch out overhead
for migrating demoiselle cranes which fly down the valley
on their way to India from Siberia and Tibet . The Red
House Lodge is an ancient house with old wall paintings
and its own private gompa room with an impressive statue
of Buddha..
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
13: TREK TO MARPHA (8,760ft/2,670m)
You
walk over a dry section of the riverbed to reach the small
settlement of Eklaibhatti - this means 'house alone',
but the original lodge here has now been joined by other
buildings. As you walk down the valley look out for ammonite
fossils among the pebbles. These are sacred to hindus
and are After 10 am a strong wind blows up the valley
here and it can sometime be rather dusty until you reach
Marpha. You arrive at Jomsom, the administrative headquarters
of the Mustang District, a rather dusty, characterless
town with a STOL airstrip, police station, army camp,
banks and shops. It is also normally possible to telephone
from here. The Kali Gandaki is here called the Thak Khola
and the ethnic group of the area are the Thakalis an enterprising
and ambitious community who formerly dominated the salt
trade with Tibet as it passed down this valley. After
its collapse in the 1950s they diversified into other
businesses, most noticeably running hotels along the trek
route. Their former wealth is reflected in their fine
villages, the principal ones that you visit being Marpha
and Tukuche. You continue into Marpha, a lovely village
of paved streets and well maintained, white washed houses
surrounded by productive fields and orchards. In the autumn
be sure to try some of the beautiful, locally grown apples
or sample the local apple brandy. The well maintained
gompa is also worth a visit.
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
14: TREK TO KALOPANI (8,398ft/2,560m)
Passing
the government vegetable and horticultural farm below
Marpha, you continue down the Kali Gandaki on an undulating
trail through forests of juniper and pine, reaching the
former Thakali trading centre of Tukuche with its large,
richly-carved homes, now largely deserted or converted
into trekking lodges. Continue down the Kali Gandaki valley
and go through the narrow streets of the villages of Karjung
and Larjung. From Larjung there are great views of Dhaulagiri
. Beyond Larjung you cross more gravel banks and continuing
down alongside the river to the twin villages of Kalopani
and Lete.
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
15: TREK TO TATOPANI (3,900ft/1,189m)
As
you emerge from the more barren, Tibetan landscape in
the rain shadow, water buffalo, banyan trees, orange groves
and poinsettias return to the trailside. You leave Thakali
country at Ghasa and enter an area of mixed Hindus, high
caste Brahmin and Chetri hill farmers and members of the
hill tribes of Gurungs and Magars. The trail climbs high
above the river through a narrow gorge, descending again
to cross a bridge near the spectacular waterfall of Rupse
Chhara, which is usually the lunch stop for the day. You
will then pass through Dana, which is the deepest point
of the Kaligandaki valley. You finally arrive at the village
of Tatopani , a bustling village which has long catered
for the needs of trekkers. In Tatopani, which means hot
water in Nepali, there are natural hot springs down by
the river side which present a good opportunity for a
relaxing soak.
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
16: TREK TO CHITRE (7,841ft/2,390m)
Continuing
down beside the river you cross a long suspension bridge
to the east bank. At a cluster of houses the trail divides:
one branch continues downstream to emerge at the roadhead
at Beni but your path takes off steeply uphill, making
an altitude gain of about 4,000ft/12,200m to reach the
small settlement of Chitre.
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
17: TREK TO GHOREPANI (9,105ft/2,775m)
Continue
walking uphill to Ghorepani (horse watering place). This
was a main staging post on the old trade route to Pokhara
although nowadays it is less used with most mule traffic
going down the Kali Gandaki to exit at the road head at
Beni . The main settlement of Ghorepani is down the other
side of the pass, but most trekkers stay in the settlement
at the pass itself so as to be in a good situation for
climbing Poon Hill. You should arrive here by lunchtime.
If conditions are clear in the afternoon you can climb
Poon Hill (10,495ft/3,190m), which offers a magnificent
panoramic view of the mountains, this afternoon. To the
east across the Kali Gandaki is towering Dhaulagiri ,
while Annapurna South and Huinchuli are directly in front
of you, with Machhapuchare and others looking less distinguished
a little further to the East. Far to the east the rolling
hills diminish in size and you can see the serpentine
Chinese road snaking its way through the hills and where
the road ends at the Phewa Tal ( Lake ), Pokhara can be
seen.If there is cloud it is better to leave the climb
of Poon Hill till sunrise the next morning.
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
18: TREK TO HILLE (5,000ft/1,524m)
At
sunrise, if not done last evening, you can climb Poon
Hill to see the mountains turn pink - one of Nepal 's
classic views. Return to the lodge for breakfast and then
descend from Ghorepani in fine oak/rhododendron forest.
As you descend you pass through the small settlements
of Nyathante and Banthante and then emerge from the forest
into cultivated land above the large and picturesque Magar
village of Ulleri (6,800ft/2,073m). From here it
is a long descent on stone steps to reach the river (Stephen
Bezruchka's book says that it is 3,767 steps!) where you
cross a suspension bridge to the village of Tirkedhunga
(5,175ft/1,577m) a total descent from Ghorepani of 4,000ft/1,200m).
The trail then descends in a more sedate fashion down
the valley of the Burungdi Khola to the village of Hille
.
OVERNIGHT
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DAY
18: TREK TO BIRETHANTI (3,600ft/1,097m) AND NAYAPHUL.
DRIVE POKHARA (2,713ft/827m)
Continue
descending down the valley of the Burungdi Khola, passing
a waterfall on your right with a beautiful pool at its
base (good swimming here!) to finally arrive at the handsome
bazaar town of Birethanti with its sturdy houses, paved
streets and café terraces overlooking the river
Modi Khola. You cross the river by a long suspension bridge
and then it is a further 20-30 minutes walk alongside
the river to reach the road at Nqyaphul where can go to
Pokhara.
Meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) with Tea &
coffee during the trek.
Services of highly experienced guide and porter
(s).
Surface transfer by private car, van.
Annapurna conservation permit, and all necessary
permits.
Trekking Registration Certificate (TRC).
1 night accommodation at Fishtail Lodge or similar in Pokhara, inclusive of breakfast,
lunch and dinner.
Tourist service charge, Vat.
Office Service charge.
THE
TOUR COST DOESN'T INCLUDE:
Travel insurance
International air fare to and from Nepal.
Nepal entry visa fee US$ 30 (duration 60 days from
date of issue)- you may easily issue the visa upon
your arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport -
Kathmandu.
Disembarkation Airport Tax in Nepal - approx. US$
24.
Items of a personal nature
Any kind of alcoholic drinks, hot water, hot shower,
cold drinks, laundry, phone call, internet.
Trekking Equipments (down sleeping bag and down
jackets are available to hire or buy in Kathmandu,
which would cost approximately US$ 1 per day per item
to hire and US$ 60 to US$ 100 per item to buy).
Tips for guide, porters, driver (TIPPING IS EXPECTED,
BUT IT IS NOT MANDATORY)
FOR
FURTHER INFO OR BOOKING, PLEASE CONTACT
US NOW.
